Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali: Essential oils, and everything you need to know about them.

Dear all,

In this Blog Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to inform you about  essential oils, ways of extraction, how to use them and how to explain the huge price differences.

1.) What are essential oils?

I would say, that essential oils is a term that most people have heard about. And especially for those who are working in the Spa industries or who maybe run their own Spa, it is part of our daily work. And of course here in our Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali we are using essential oils as well in massage oils, as fragrant in Aromatherapy or as Insect repellant. But what exactly is an essential oil?

As a definition we could say, that an essential oil is a volatile oil, usually having the characteristic odor or flavor of the plant from which it is obtained. So the oil is “essential” in the sense that it carries certain characteristics(scent, odor, essence) of a plant.

Essential oils do not form distinctive categories, for medical, pharmacological, culinary or any other imaginable purpose.

But even though essential oils do not form distinctive medical categories, they have been used for medical reasons and of course further for massage oils, in cosmetic products, soaps and of course for adding scent to incense.

2. ) How are essential oils produced?

Of Course Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to provide you as well with interesting information about the production of essential oils. The extraction methods for essential oils are: Enfleurage, Expression, Steam Distilling, Solvent extraction, Super Critical Fluid Extraction and the Phytonic Process.

The Super Critical Fluid Extraction and the Phytonic Process( as well called Florasolextraction) are very new methods of essential oil production. The equipment for the Super Critical Fluid Extraction is still very expensive and so it is not yet used so much, but Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali still wants to explain it here with a few words. 

The Super Critical Fluid Extraction is a method of essential oil extraction, which uses Carbon Dioxid in a special form. Carbon Dioxid usually is a gas, or a solid when frozen and well known as the so called dry ice. If you go the opposite way and you increase the temperature and the pressure over the so called STP(standard temperature and pressure) you get something new, what has properties somewhere midway between a gas and a liquid ; a so called supercritical fluid.

This liquid can now be pressed through plant material, where it acts as a solvent. The advantage of this method is that the CO2 can be easily completely removed and that of course produces a very pure essential oil and will be maybe later make it an alternative to the classical solvent extraction, which is described later on. I think that the Spa industry or the industry in general looks very interested to this new method, and as well we here at Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali hope to hear news about this new method.

The Phtonic Process/Florasol Extraction  is a very new method that uses “non-chloroflurocarbons” who are as well referred to as phytols. The quality of the produced oils is close to nature, but it has to be said that the process uses fluro-hydrocarbons, which can be potentially harmful and are definitely not good for the environment.

Next Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to explain about the Enfleurage and Steam Distillation.

Both of these are opposite to the two methods mentioned before very old techniques, but still in use for the production of essential oils.

The Enfleurage  is one of the oldest forms of producing essential oils and fragrance. It can be done as a “cold enfleurage” or as a “hot enfleurage”. In both methods normally animal fat from pork or beef, so called lard or tallow is used. In the cold enfleurage a thin layer of this fat is first spread onto a framed plate of glass and then for example Jasmine flowers are placed on it. Now the volatile oil of these flowers is allowed to diffuse into the fat for 1-3 days, producing the so called “enfleurage pomade”. In hot enfleurage the fat would be heated and the flowers stirred into the fat. The product at this point would be as well a so called “enfleurage pomade”.

If we wash it now with ethyl alcohol to move the violate oil into the alcohol and allow the alcohol later to evaporate it will leave behind the “essence”.

Enfleurage was a long time the only possibility to extract so delicate essential oils like Jasmin. Now let’s come to the Steam Distillation.

 In Steam Distillation the raw plant material is put into a so called alembic, over water and as the water is heated, the steam passes through the plant material, vaporizing the essential oil. The vapor now has to flow through a coil where it can condense and is then collected in a vessel. Today most common essential oils- such as lavender, peppermint and so on are produced in this way.

The Expression now is one of the mentioned essential oil extractions left. It is simply mechanically pressed. This method is for example used for citrus peel because of the relatively high amounts of essential oil citrus peel contains. These essential oils are produced as byproducts and relatively cheap.

Last but not least Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to introduce you to the solvent extraction.

The Solvent Extraction uses chemicals such as hexane, acetone, di-methylene chloride and others to extract essential oils. Using this method the plant is actually immersed into the solvent to become a thick substance called “concrete”. Often now another solvent, such as ethyl alcohol is used to extract the fragrant or essential oil from the concrete. Allowing the alcohol to evaporate it leaves behind the so called “absolute” or essential oil. Of course we don’t prefer this method, because of the use of chemicals, but at this point simply has to be mentioned that vegetable oils are produced in the same way, still delivering a product that can be eaten!!!

Knowing now the amounts of essential oils that might be used in massage oil we are talking about extreme small amounts of solvents that might remain!

But of course Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali and probably many others would be happy about alternatives and maybe the Supercritical Fluid Extraction will offer that one day.

3.) Why are there so huge differences in the price of essential oils?

Here in our Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali we are often asked why prices of essential oils offered in Supermarkets differ so much prices of the essential oils we and other high class Spa offer.

There has to be first mentioned, that in general there are big differences in the the production prices of essential oils in general. So we already know that one factor is definitely the extraction method that is used. But there are other criteria as well, like for example the availability of raw material and that makes for example Sandelwood essential oil(what needs ages until it can be harvested ) compared to clove essential oil(what can be distilled out of the leaves) an expensive essential oil. And last but not least don’t forget that cheap essential oils are very often synthetic products ( and should then be called fragrance) or simply not pure!

4.) What should be considered when using essential oils?

When handling different essential oils please be aware that the potential danger of essential oil is generally relative to its level or grade of purity. That means the higher the level of purity; the more careful we have to handle them. In general you have to say that essential oils have to be diluted before they should come into contact with the body. Doesn’t matter in which way you want to use them, as a Perfume, a Mist or for massage, we first have to mix them! In case of an massage oil we normally mix the essential oil with a so called carrier/base oil. Example for that could be Olive oil more info, Sunflower oil more info, Grapeseed oil more info, Sweet Almond oil more info, Jojoba oil more info, Apricot Kernel oil more info, Soy Bean oil, Coconut oil and many more. In our Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali we follow the following guidelines when blending massage oils:

Body massage-50 drops essential oil/100ml base oil

Facial massage-25 drops essential oil/100ml base oil

Children 1 year to 12 years-25drops essential oil/100ml base oil

Elderly people-25drops essential oil/100ml base oil

Babies up to 1 year- No! essential oils!! Pure Sunflower oil is perfect for infant massage

Pregnant woman- No essential oils

If not diluted and directly applied to the skin some essential oils can cause severe irritation, provocatean allergic reaction and, over time even be hepatotoxic (that means to damage the liver!).

Please be as well aware that other essential oils, like for example many of the citrus peel oils increase the skins vulnerability to sunlight. Apart from that it is suggested to not use essential oils internal!

I mean just the fact that many of them can attack plastic bottles, should make clear that the stomach isn’t the right place for essential oils. Some of them can have as well certain toxicity if taken orally.

In the end we would like to recommend doing a bit of a research before using a new essential oil. And there will be soon Article published in our Blog concentrating on the different essential oils.

5.) What are essential oils mainly used for?

Essential oils have a very wide range of use and so of course the main usage in the Spa and Beauty industry is the usage in massage oils, creams, perfume, body mist and many more. They are as well the key ingredient of Aromatherapy an alternative healing method, and here in our Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali we use them as well frequently as insect repellant, or as fragrance for face towel( for example lavender).

Outside of the Spa essential oils are used as well, for example for flavoring food(but just certain, in certain amounts and quality’s!!!! Pls. don’t experiment with that!!!), Household Cleaner, and even today still in medicine. So is for example juniper valued for his diuretic effects and Thymol well known for its antiseptic effects.(By the way a Tea made of Thyme leaves helps very well with colds and diseases of the respiratory system).

In the end Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to show you a list of essential oils we are using in our Spa and which will be soon subject of further article.

Lemongrass essential oil read more

Citronella essential oil

Tea Tree essential oil

Clove essential oil read more

Rose essential oil

Jasmine essential oil

Lavender essential oil

Peppermint essential oil read more

Sandalwood essential oil

Ylang – Ylang essential oil

Frangipany essential oil read more

Cempaka essential oil

Cinnamon essential oil

Patchouli essential oil

Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali hopes you enjoyed reading.

Recommended links:
http://spiralspa.blogspot.com/2013/12/v-behaviorurldefaultvmlo.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essential_oil
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enfleurage
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steam_distillation
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid%E2%80%93liquid_extraction
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercritical_fluid_extraction

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Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali: Apricot Kernel Oil: For massage an excellent choice to Sweet Almond

Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali:

Apricot Kernel Oil: For massage an excellent choice to Sweet Almond

Dear all, in this Blog Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali wants to introduce you to Apricot Kernel oil, as a base oil in massage.

The apricot was known in Armenia during ancient times, and has been cultivated there for so long, it is often thought to have originated there. Its scientific name Prunus armeniaca (Armenian plum) derives from that assumption. For example, De Poerderlé, writing in the 18th century, asserted, "Cet arbre tire son nom de l'Arménie, province d'Asie, d'où il est originaire et d'où il fut porté en Europe ..." ("this tree takes its name from Armenia, province of Asia, where it is native, and whence it was brought to Europe ..."). An archaeological excavation at Garni  in Armenia found apricot seeds in an Eneolithic-era site. Despite the great number of varieties of apricots that are grown in Armenia today (about 50), according to Vavilov, a popular russian botanist and geneticists, its center of origin center of would be the Chinese region, where the domestication of apricot would have taken place. Other sources say that the apricot was first cultivated in India in about 3000 BC.

Regarding the quality of the oil, cold pressed oil represents the highest quality that could be used in massage.

At this moment we would like to introduce you to an method of oil instruction we found in a document of the Indian Journal of Traditional Knowledge.

1.Step : Fruits will be collected and separated from the seed.

2. Step : The hard seed is softened by immersing in water for 10-20 minutes to ease breaking the hard shell. The broken shell is used as firewood during the subsequent oil extraction process.

3. Step: A handful of the hard shell seed is placed on a flat stone and the shell is broken with a stone which fits into the palm. Then the Kernel is separated from the broken shell.

4. Step: In the next step the Kernel is crushed to powder using pestle and mortar.

5. Step: Now you have to continue crushing it until you get a paste, for that a slightly curved stone of hard stone of approximately 60 x 30 cm, locally known as Tal-tsig , is used. A palm fitting stone is used to grind the crushed apricot kernel into a paste form.

6.Step: Now the paste will be moved to another curved stone, called Ton-tsig having a cup shape groove at one end and the stone will be heated by fire. The temperature of Ton-tsig is maintained so that the bare hand can be touched without burning sensation. The temperature is regulated either by slowing the fire or by using stones. The ground paste is doughed thoroughly with bare hand on the heat stone. During the process, a handful of water is sprinkled on the dough which enables easy extraction of oil. The extracted oil gets collected in the cup shaped groove at the opposite end of the Ton-tsig which is transferred to a vessel with a spoon.

The whole process can be repeated twice and on average 1kg of apricot kernel brings a yield of 350ml oil.

This traditional method of extraction is practiced in Ladkah a region in India and produces an oil of excellent quality.

Apricot Kernel is pale yellow oil with a smell of bitter almond. Its light texture is especially suitable for facial massage blends. Good for the more mature, dry, sensitive or inflamed skin. It is said to have the effect of balancing the pancreas and the thyroid and helps the gall bladder. This oil is excellent for restoring a glow to devitalized complexions. It heals scar tissue, especially when mixed with wheat germ oil. An expensive oil to use on its own so blend with almond, grapeseed, jojoba or other base oils. Its moisturizing, revitalizing properties are also popular in many cosmetics for dry or aged skin. Stores well under any conditions but heat will lessen the shelf life. Further it is rich on vitamin A and E and absorbed very easily by the skin, what makes it an optimal choice for aromatherapy massage. 

We hope you enjoyed reading

Your Spiral Spa & Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali

 

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Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali: Jojobaoil: The all-day moisturizer

Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali :

Jojobaoil: The all-day moisturizer

Today Spiral Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali, wants to introduce you to Jojoba oil:   

Jojoba is a shrub native to the Sonoran and Mojave deserts of Arizona, California, and Mexico. It is the sole species of the family Simmondisiacea, placed in the order Caryophyllales. It is also known as goat nut, deer nut, pignut, wild hazel, quinine nut, coffee berry, and gray box bush.  Jojoba is grown commercially for its oil, a liquid wax ester, extracted from the seed. The plant has also been used to combat and prevent desertification in the Thar Desert in India.

Jojoba oil is the liquid wax produced in the seed of the jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis) plant and makes up approximately 50% of the jojoba seed by weight.

The oil has a golden color and almost no odor.

This oil is extracted from the beans of a plant that lives as long as one hundred years and thrives in temperatures as high as 122°f without noticeable absorption of water. Jojoba oil is not actually a oil, but rather a liquid wax. It is rich in Vitamin E and will not turn rancid like other oils as it has antioxidant properties and is therefore ideal for blends, particularly for the face and hair. It requires little to no refining and has several specific skin care properties. Its chemical composition is close to the skins own oil, sebum, making it good for all skin types.

Excellent for skin and hair care products. Good for inflamed skin, psoriasis, eczema and all skin types. Because of its natural affinity with the skin, jojoba oil is especially good for sensitive complexions or oily and acne skin conditions that require delicate treatment. When massaged into the skin it combines with sebum and gently unclogs pores to free embedded dirt and grime. It is possible to use jojoba in massage for its one or to mix it with other oils, but because of its high cost it is often mixed with other oils. At high amounts jojoba oil can lend a shine to the skin. You may want to be conservative with it during the day, but for a massage in the evening or as ingredient for a night cream there no restrictions have to be made and you can use it pure or in higher amounts. In my own opinion specially the antioxidant properties of Jojoba oil would make it an interesting, but unfortunately very expensive choice for a massage oil We hope you enjoyed reading. Your Spiral Spa @ Bloo, Padang Bai, Bali

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